Level: Moderate
This colorful block of fabrics can be made in many colors and used for many things - a quilt block, a pot holder, table decoration, a pad for a flower pot, or a trivet. And when the holidays approach, I like to have an extra gift on hand just in case. I prefer to give a home-made gift so I try to have many small things on hand to wrap for the season.
These log cabin blocks can be made in quantity by assembling them all at once. Follow these easy new quilting techniques and you will be very pleased with the results. I like to use squares of old cotton-filled mattress pads as the inside padding because it insulates better than polyester batting. Sometimes it is possible to buy a silver metallic fabric that is designed just for pot holders. It better protects your table and hands from hot things from the oven.
Supplies:
1/8 yd. of 7 fabrics. For example: 1 yellow, 3 red, and 3 green
Neutral sewing thread
Batting or insulated fabric
16-inch square of backing fabric (color of choice)
Step-by-Steps:
1. Purchase fabric. In the figures below, we use 3 red fabrics, 3 green fabrics, and 1 bright yellow fabric. Amount of fabric depends on how many blocks you plan to make. One strip of each fabric will make two log cabin blocks.
2. Cut 2 1/2-inch strips from each color of the fabric from selvage to selvage. If you are using a rotary cutter stack the fabrics and cut three or four of them at the same time. Using a rotary cutter makes the strips very accurate and precisely cut. If scissors are used carefully mark and then cut the strips.
3. Two or many more log cabin blocks can be made using this method, so determine how many blocks you want to make and then begin. It is a sew-and-cut method so it's different than the traditional log cabin construction.
4. Begin sewing by laying the red strip right side up on the sewing machine. Lay the right side of the yellow strip face down on the red strip and sew along the right hand edge using a �-in. seam allowance. Sew the whole length of the strips together if you intend to make many blocks - sew only 6 inches of the strips together if you intend to make two blocks. Carefully cut the unopened and unpressed strip into 2 �-inch lengths. If you sewed the whole length together you will get about 17 pieces. If you sewed only 6 inches of the strips, you will have two pieces that will be the log cabin centers. Now, open this piece and press the seam allowances toward the red fabric. Add this piece to all the other strips in the following steps.
5. Place another strip of red fabric face up on the sewing machine. The pieces you sewed and cut from step 4 will be placed face down on the red strip with the yellow fabric at the bottom, seam the pieces to the strip along the right hand edge. The raw edges between the pieces will be butted against each other as they are attached to the red strip. After the sewing is complete you will cut between these raw edges before opening and pressing. The small center now has one yellow fabric and two red fabrics.
6. Place a green strip face up on the sewing machine and place the small center block right side down to the green strip and sew along the right hand edge using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. The red fabric that you last added is toward the top of the strip. Butt the edges against each other and sew until all the pieces are attached. Cut between the pieces before opening and pressing, and now you have a center yellow with two red pieces and one green piece attached. Press the seam away from the center.
7. Place another green strip face up on the machine and place the opened block from step 6, right side down with the green fabric at the top and sew these pieces to the new green strip.
8. Continue in this manner - adding red strips twice and then green strips twice until you have a 15-inch square. If you want a smaller block either make the strips narrower or add fewer strips.
9. To finish this block and make a trivet, or potholder, place a layer of cotton batting or insulated fabric on the backside of the block. Cut a square of fabric for the backing slightly larger than the block. With the right sides together sew around the four sides leaving a small 4- to 5-inch opening for turning right side out.
10. Before turning, trim all the seams and corners to reduce bulk. Use a pointed object to poke out the corners and then top stitch around the four edges to flatten and to also close the area that was used in turning right side out.
Make your fabulous log cabin square into a pillow with a 3-inch ruffled edge.
Saturday, February 9, 2008
A Fanciful Ruffled Pillow
Level: Moderate
How would you like to make a colorful toss pillow with a 3-inch ruffled edge? Make it festive for the holidays with appropriate fabric and easy quilting techniques as shown in the photograph. If you're interested in making this log cabin pillow, follow these instructions. When the piecing aspect of this is complete, follow the directions below for the final touches for a ruffled pillow. If you would prefer a solid front for your ruffled pillow, keep reading.
Ruffled pillows are simple to make and add spark to any room in the house. The pillow in the photo uses one of the fabrics in the quilt block for the ruffle. Let your own color scheme help you decide what fabric to use for the ruffle. Make extra ruffled pillows as wonderful gifts for special friends.
Supplies:
15-inch log cabin block or square of fabric
14- to 16-inch pillow form
1-1/4 yd. fabric for back and ruffle
About 3 yards of lightweight string or heavyweight thread
15-inch square of light batting
Thread to match fabric
Step-by-Steps:
Once you have made the log cabin square or have a 15-in. piece of appropriate fabric, begin the following steps.
1. Prepare the strip for the ruffle by tearing 7-in. strips of fabric. A ruffle needs to be full enough to be gathered and sewn to the outside edge of the pillow top. Therefore, tear 2 or 3 strips of 44- to 45-in. fabric.
Tip! It is possible to have the ruffle too full especially if the fabric is too heavy.
This 14- to 16-in. pillow form (pictured) needed 3 strips of fabric for the ruffle because of its size.
HINT: Always measure your pillow form because manufacturers vary in their quoted pillow form measurements. What you think is a 14-in. pillow form may actually be 15 inches by your measurements.
2. Sew the short ends of the strips together to make one continuous strip. Press seams open. Fold this strip in half with the wrong sides together and press so the raw edges are together. Divide this long strip into 4 equal segments and mark these points with a safety pin. This will be your 3-in. wide ruffle.
3. To gather the ruffle, use a lightweight string or heavyweight thread as long as the ruffle strip. Lay the string a 1/2 inch from the raw edge of the strip. Using normal thread in your sewing machine, zigzag over the string. Don't catch the string in the zigzag stitches because the string will be pulled to gather the ruffle to the dimension of the pillow.
Tip! It's important to use a lightweight string or heavyweight thread for the ruffling process. It can withstand a lot of tension as you pull and tug on it and will be less likely to break.
4. Prepare the pillow top by layering a piece of quilt batting under the log cabin block or 15-in.-square of fabric. Stitch around the outside edge of the square to attach the batting to the top square. The layer of batting gives more body to the pillow top. Machine quilting along the seams would hold these layers together but isn't necessary.
5. Prepare the ruffle by pulling the string from both ends to gather the strip to fit the top. The pins you placed in the ruffle strip will help to evenly distribute the gathers.
6. Carefully pin the ruffle to the prepared pillow top. Place the right side of the ruffle against the right side of the pillow top. The gathered edge will be on the outside edge of the pillow top.
Tip! The finished edge of the ruffle will be temporarily facing the center of the pillow.
Adjust the gathers and allow extra fullness at the corners.
7. Sew around all four sides of the pillow attaching the ruffle as you sew. The seam allowance should be just inside the zigzag stitches and will be slightly wider than a 1/2 inch.
8. Prepare the pillow back by cutting a square that is 2 inches larger than the pillow front.
9. Lay the pillow back right side down on top of the ruffles and sew around all four edges through all the layers, leaving a 9- to 10-in. opening for turning right side out.
Tip! Be careful to avoid catching the loose part of the ruffle into this seam.
10. Check this seam carefully after turning and correct any problems. Press lightly with a steam iron if necessary before stuffing with the pillow form.
11. If the corners aren't fully filled out take some loose batting and fill the corners. The pillow should be full, not flat and limp.
12. Close the opening by hand sewing with matching thread, turning the seam allowance inside.
How would you like to make a colorful toss pillow with a 3-inch ruffled edge? Make it festive for the holidays with appropriate fabric and easy quilting techniques as shown in the photograph. If you're interested in making this log cabin pillow, follow these instructions. When the piecing aspect of this is complete, follow the directions below for the final touches for a ruffled pillow. If you would prefer a solid front for your ruffled pillow, keep reading.
Ruffled pillows are simple to make and add spark to any room in the house. The pillow in the photo uses one of the fabrics in the quilt block for the ruffle. Let your own color scheme help you decide what fabric to use for the ruffle. Make extra ruffled pillows as wonderful gifts for special friends.
Supplies:
15-inch log cabin block or square of fabric
14- to 16-inch pillow form
1-1/4 yd. fabric for back and ruffle
About 3 yards of lightweight string or heavyweight thread
15-inch square of light batting
Thread to match fabric
Step-by-Steps:
Once you have made the log cabin square or have a 15-in. piece of appropriate fabric, begin the following steps.
1. Prepare the strip for the ruffle by tearing 7-in. strips of fabric. A ruffle needs to be full enough to be gathered and sewn to the outside edge of the pillow top. Therefore, tear 2 or 3 strips of 44- to 45-in. fabric.
Tip! It is possible to have the ruffle too full especially if the fabric is too heavy.
This 14- to 16-in. pillow form (pictured) needed 3 strips of fabric for the ruffle because of its size.
HINT: Always measure your pillow form because manufacturers vary in their quoted pillow form measurements. What you think is a 14-in. pillow form may actually be 15 inches by your measurements.
2. Sew the short ends of the strips together to make one continuous strip. Press seams open. Fold this strip in half with the wrong sides together and press so the raw edges are together. Divide this long strip into 4 equal segments and mark these points with a safety pin. This will be your 3-in. wide ruffle.
3. To gather the ruffle, use a lightweight string or heavyweight thread as long as the ruffle strip. Lay the string a 1/2 inch from the raw edge of the strip. Using normal thread in your sewing machine, zigzag over the string. Don't catch the string in the zigzag stitches because the string will be pulled to gather the ruffle to the dimension of the pillow.
Tip! It's important to use a lightweight string or heavyweight thread for the ruffling process. It can withstand a lot of tension as you pull and tug on it and will be less likely to break.
4. Prepare the pillow top by layering a piece of quilt batting under the log cabin block or 15-in.-square of fabric. Stitch around the outside edge of the square to attach the batting to the top square. The layer of batting gives more body to the pillow top. Machine quilting along the seams would hold these layers together but isn't necessary.
5. Prepare the ruffle by pulling the string from both ends to gather the strip to fit the top. The pins you placed in the ruffle strip will help to evenly distribute the gathers.
6. Carefully pin the ruffle to the prepared pillow top. Place the right side of the ruffle against the right side of the pillow top. The gathered edge will be on the outside edge of the pillow top.
Tip! The finished edge of the ruffle will be temporarily facing the center of the pillow.
Adjust the gathers and allow extra fullness at the corners.
7. Sew around all four sides of the pillow attaching the ruffle as you sew. The seam allowance should be just inside the zigzag stitches and will be slightly wider than a 1/2 inch.
8. Prepare the pillow back by cutting a square that is 2 inches larger than the pillow front.
9. Lay the pillow back right side down on top of the ruffles and sew around all four edges through all the layers, leaving a 9- to 10-in. opening for turning right side out.
Tip! Be careful to avoid catching the loose part of the ruffle into this seam.
10. Check this seam carefully after turning and correct any problems. Press lightly with a steam iron if necessary before stuffing with the pillow form.
11. If the corners aren't fully filled out take some loose batting and fill the corners. The pillow should be full, not flat and limp.
12. Close the opening by hand sewing with matching thread, turning the seam allowance inside.
Ribbons, Bows and Baskets
Level: Easy
Baskets have been used decoratively for years but they are also great containers for organizing and keeping things in place. Baskets in the kitchen, bath, or the bedroom add a new dimension to storage. We all seem to need more storage, whether it's for kitchen tools, bath towels, or hats and gloves.
The use of decorator fabric makes an ordinary basket into something extraordinary. Use a strip of left over drapery fabric or something that coordinates with your decor and even a small basket becomes noticeable. This project can be done by anyone who doesn't sew but loves to accessorize his or her home with unique and colorful custom-made items. First, find a sturdy and sizable basket for the things you need to store and then decide on the fabric for your ribbon and bow.
Decorating a basket with fabric allows you to match the decor but also allows for making a generous and full bow with flowing streamers. The fabric is treated with a fabric stiffener, which makes the bow molding an easy and fun project. After the fabric stiffener dries it is permanent and humidity resistant. If the bow eventually needs to be dusted a damp rag can be used and it won't hurt the finish on the fabric.
Supplies:
Basket
- 3/4 yd. fabric
8 oz. Fabric Stiffener
Hot glue gun
Step-by-Steps:
1. Cut a long strip of fabric after determining how wide the bow and streamers will be on your basket. The bow and streamers used on the basket in the photo are 3 inches wide. The fabric was cut in 8-inch-long strips because the fabric is folded so that the raw edges are hidden on the underside.
2. The streamers are formed before the bow is created and uses a separate strip of fabric. This streamer is gracefully draped over the shape of the basket and therefore the length of the strip will be determined by the size of the basket. This basket starts with a 50-in. strip, for example. Using your iron, press this strip so that the raw edges are overlapped on the underside and the strip is about 3 inches wide. Don't trim the ends until the streamer has been stiffened and placed where you want it to be.
3. Cut two more strips - 8 in. by 24 in. and 8 in. by 16 in. - to form the bow
4. Cut a final strip to form the center of the bow - 6 in. by 5 in.
5. Press these strips as you did for the streamers with the strip for the center of the bow being only 2 in. wide when overlapped.
6. The product for stiffening is water based and non-toxic and is easily cleaned but looks like white glue when used. It stiffens as it dries so it is necessary to give things a shape before it dries completely. Saturate the strips of fabric that you have pressed and place them on a waxed paper covered surface to dry 45 minutes until slightly damp. If your have excess fabric stiffener on the strips don't squeeze the fabric but use a rubber spatula or your fingers to remove the excess.
7. When the strips are still damp, but no longer sticky, you will form them into the shapes you desire. Start with the long streamer and decide where on the basket it will sit. It looks good to make the streamer rippled as it sits on the basket, so make the necessary tucks and folds to accomplish this look.
8. The bow is constructed rather than tied so use each strip you cut to form the loops of the bow. To maintain the shape while the stiffener is drying stuff the loops of the bow with plastic bags after you have shaped them. Use the small piece - 6 in. by 5 in. - to make the center tie for the bow. It will be only 2 in. wide after you fold the raw edges under. While the fabric is still damp wrap the center part around the loops and around the streamer in the appropriate position. The placement of the bow depends on the shape of the basket but slightly off center looks best. Pin or paper clip the raw edges together to cinch the bow together in the middle and make the final adjustments to the shape before it dries completely.
9. After the shapes are dry, the bow and streamers are attached to the basket using a hot glue gun. Use the glue only where needed to secure the bow and streamers.
10. Trim the ends of the streamer using sharp household scissors - not sewing scissors - tapering the ends.
Baskets have been used decoratively for years but they are also great containers for organizing and keeping things in place. Baskets in the kitchen, bath, or the bedroom add a new dimension to storage. We all seem to need more storage, whether it's for kitchen tools, bath towels, or hats and gloves.
The use of decorator fabric makes an ordinary basket into something extraordinary. Use a strip of left over drapery fabric or something that coordinates with your decor and even a small basket becomes noticeable. This project can be done by anyone who doesn't sew but loves to accessorize his or her home with unique and colorful custom-made items. First, find a sturdy and sizable basket for the things you need to store and then decide on the fabric for your ribbon and bow.
Decorating a basket with fabric allows you to match the decor but also allows for making a generous and full bow with flowing streamers. The fabric is treated with a fabric stiffener, which makes the bow molding an easy and fun project. After the fabric stiffener dries it is permanent and humidity resistant. If the bow eventually needs to be dusted a damp rag can be used and it won't hurt the finish on the fabric.
Supplies:
Basket
- 3/4 yd. fabric
8 oz. Fabric Stiffener
Hot glue gun
Step-by-Steps:
1. Cut a long strip of fabric after determining how wide the bow and streamers will be on your basket. The bow and streamers used on the basket in the photo are 3 inches wide. The fabric was cut in 8-inch-long strips because the fabric is folded so that the raw edges are hidden on the underside.
2. The streamers are formed before the bow is created and uses a separate strip of fabric. This streamer is gracefully draped over the shape of the basket and therefore the length of the strip will be determined by the size of the basket. This basket starts with a 50-in. strip, for example. Using your iron, press this strip so that the raw edges are overlapped on the underside and the strip is about 3 inches wide. Don't trim the ends until the streamer has been stiffened and placed where you want it to be.
3. Cut two more strips - 8 in. by 24 in. and 8 in. by 16 in. - to form the bow
4. Cut a final strip to form the center of the bow - 6 in. by 5 in.
5. Press these strips as you did for the streamers with the strip for the center of the bow being only 2 in. wide when overlapped.
6. The product for stiffening is water based and non-toxic and is easily cleaned but looks like white glue when used. It stiffens as it dries so it is necessary to give things a shape before it dries completely. Saturate the strips of fabric that you have pressed and place them on a waxed paper covered surface to dry 45 minutes until slightly damp. If your have excess fabric stiffener on the strips don't squeeze the fabric but use a rubber spatula or your fingers to remove the excess.
7. When the strips are still damp, but no longer sticky, you will form them into the shapes you desire. Start with the long streamer and decide where on the basket it will sit. It looks good to make the streamer rippled as it sits on the basket, so make the necessary tucks and folds to accomplish this look.
8. The bow is constructed rather than tied so use each strip you cut to form the loops of the bow. To maintain the shape while the stiffener is drying stuff the loops of the bow with plastic bags after you have shaped them. Use the small piece - 6 in. by 5 in. - to make the center tie for the bow. It will be only 2 in. wide after you fold the raw edges under. While the fabric is still damp wrap the center part around the loops and around the streamer in the appropriate position. The placement of the bow depends on the shape of the basket but slightly off center looks best. Pin or paper clip the raw edges together to cinch the bow together in the middle and make the final adjustments to the shape before it dries completely.
9. After the shapes are dry, the bow and streamers are attached to the basket using a hot glue gun. Use the glue only where needed to secure the bow and streamers.
10. Trim the ends of the streamer using sharp household scissors - not sewing scissors - tapering the ends.
Furniture: Achieve the Look You Want
Ready-to-finish furniture is quite affordable and it's easy to decorate with paint, stain, faux finishing techniques, and other quick and easy crafting tricks.
Multi-Colored High Chair
Give a high chair a spirited look by painting each of the rungs and spokes a different color. Use shades of pastels for a soft look, or combine primary colors for a bright chair. First apply a primer coat of white. Then paint each rung, spoke or leg in a different color. Next, paint the high chair tray one color and the trim another color. Add a stencil design of random circles, squares and triangles. Cut the shapes from a hard sponge. Press each shape onto one of the paint colors and press over the high chair tray as if you were rubber stamping it.
Country Jelly Cabinet
An old-fashioned jelly cabinet is a versatile storage unit. It's handy for files, books, linens, or extra dishes and glassware. It's also great for storing sewing supplies. Decorate the front panels with a simple illustration. First paint the top and sides. Next, trace a design or illustration from a book or other source that will fit on the front. Tape the tracing face down on the cabinet and retrace on the back of the lines to transfer the design. Remove the tracing and fill in the outlines with acrylic paint colors of your choice.
Spatter Paint Kitchen Chairs
Give plain wooden kitchen chairs character with a spatter paint finish. First use semi-gloss latex to paint the chair in the color of your choice. Then dip a toothbrush into a contrasting color and run your finger over the bristles to spritz the paint over the entire surface of the chair. You can do this over and over with many different colors for a multi-colored effect.
Chair Wrap
Cut out designs from pretty wrapping paper and glue them at random on the painted chair. Three coats of polyurethane protects it all. It's an easy way to make an ordinary chair fanciful.
Divider Screen
Combine a background of a faux finish with pretty floral greeting cards on the panels of a divider screen. First paint the screen with a background color, then add an overall faux technique of sponging, combing or strie. Glue the cards to the center of each panel and frame each one with a narrow strip of velvet ribbon in a color to match each flower.
Distressing Facts
Paint an unfinished armoire a country color. Then give it an old and distressed look with antiquing. Finally remove some of the paint by rubbing the surface down with fine sandpaper, and then steel wool so the wood shows through. This is a good way to create a worn, country look from a new piece of furniture. Satin polyurethane protects the furniture with a matte sheen.
Covered With Roses
Paint a small, occasional table a pale shade of pink. With a light pencil, create a 1-inch diamond grid on the diagonal over the table top. Dip an artist's brush in green paint and go over the grid lines freehand to make graceful weaving vines. Apply rose decals evenly spaced on either sides of the vines for a rose-covered trellis.
Blanket Chest
Apply a light wood stain to the sides of a blanket chest. For contrast, stain the lid a darker color stain. Apply semi-gloss polyurethane and let dry. Dip fine black sandpaper in sudsy water and rub lightly over the entire surface. Wipe clean and the finish will be satin smooth. A coating of bowling alley paste wax, such as Johnson's or Butcher's will give the piece a beautiful sheen and the chest will look like expensive furniture.
Decorative Touches With Stencils
Paint or stain a plain table, then add a stencil border around the edge. A geometric design in a contrasting color or darker stain is perfect for a square or rectangular surface. A delicate border of vines and heart-shaped leaves will give a Scandinavian flair to the door frame of a china cabinet. Use a floral border on the front of dresser drawers or on the top of a night table.
Multi-Colored High Chair
Give a high chair a spirited look by painting each of the rungs and spokes a different color. Use shades of pastels for a soft look, or combine primary colors for a bright chair. First apply a primer coat of white. Then paint each rung, spoke or leg in a different color. Next, paint the high chair tray one color and the trim another color. Add a stencil design of random circles, squares and triangles. Cut the shapes from a hard sponge. Press each shape onto one of the paint colors and press over the high chair tray as if you were rubber stamping it.
Country Jelly Cabinet
An old-fashioned jelly cabinet is a versatile storage unit. It's handy for files, books, linens, or extra dishes and glassware. It's also great for storing sewing supplies. Decorate the front panels with a simple illustration. First paint the top and sides. Next, trace a design or illustration from a book or other source that will fit on the front. Tape the tracing face down on the cabinet and retrace on the back of the lines to transfer the design. Remove the tracing and fill in the outlines with acrylic paint colors of your choice.
Spatter Paint Kitchen Chairs
Give plain wooden kitchen chairs character with a spatter paint finish. First use semi-gloss latex to paint the chair in the color of your choice. Then dip a toothbrush into a contrasting color and run your finger over the bristles to spritz the paint over the entire surface of the chair. You can do this over and over with many different colors for a multi-colored effect.
Chair Wrap
Cut out designs from pretty wrapping paper and glue them at random on the painted chair. Three coats of polyurethane protects it all. It's an easy way to make an ordinary chair fanciful.
Divider Screen
Combine a background of a faux finish with pretty floral greeting cards on the panels of a divider screen. First paint the screen with a background color, then add an overall faux technique of sponging, combing or strie. Glue the cards to the center of each panel and frame each one with a narrow strip of velvet ribbon in a color to match each flower.
Distressing Facts
Paint an unfinished armoire a country color. Then give it an old and distressed look with antiquing. Finally remove some of the paint by rubbing the surface down with fine sandpaper, and then steel wool so the wood shows through. This is a good way to create a worn, country look from a new piece of furniture. Satin polyurethane protects the furniture with a matte sheen.
Covered With Roses
Paint a small, occasional table a pale shade of pink. With a light pencil, create a 1-inch diamond grid on the diagonal over the table top. Dip an artist's brush in green paint and go over the grid lines freehand to make graceful weaving vines. Apply rose decals evenly spaced on either sides of the vines for a rose-covered trellis.
Blanket Chest
Apply a light wood stain to the sides of a blanket chest. For contrast, stain the lid a darker color stain. Apply semi-gloss polyurethane and let dry. Dip fine black sandpaper in sudsy water and rub lightly over the entire surface. Wipe clean and the finish will be satin smooth. A coating of bowling alley paste wax, such as Johnson's or Butcher's will give the piece a beautiful sheen and the chest will look like expensive furniture.
Decorative Touches With Stencils
Paint or stain a plain table, then add a stencil border around the edge. A geometric design in a contrasting color or darker stain is perfect for a square or rectangular surface. A delicate border of vines and heart-shaped leaves will give a Scandinavian flair to the door frame of a china cabinet. Use a floral border on the front of dresser drawers or on the top of a night table.
Special Accent: Padded Hangers
Level: Easy
After all the sewing projects for decorating your home are finished and you think there are no more new ways to use that beautiful fabric you have left over, then one more idea comes to your imagination. How about making covered and padded hangers for that special occasion dress? And they make great gifts, too. Padded hangers are especially nice covered in satin for a wedding gift or from matching fabric for the bridesmaids, done in elegant fabric to coordinate with the dresses. There is no end to fun sewing ideas if you keep looking for them.
Supplies:
1/4 yd. print or satin fabric
Scrap quilt batting or loose Fiberfil
thread
hanger - wooden or wire
1 yd. -in. wide ribbon
Step-by Steps:
1. Find a plain old wooden hanger to use as the base. A wire hanger can also be used but needs to be bent and shaped before covering it. Shape the wire hanger by squeezing the wire hanger together to form a narrow shaped hanger so that the open center part is flattened and close together.
2. Using any type of quilt batting, cut about 3 in. wide strips and wrap these strips around the hanger from the hook in the center to the end of the hanger and back again until the whole hanger is evenly covered in a layer of soft batting. Wrap the batting with sewing thread to hold it in place and secure it to the hanger.
3. Cut two narrow strips of fabric measuring 3 1/4 in. by 15 1/2 in. and two more strips that measure 3 1/4 in. by 9 in. Round off one end of each of these four strips.
4. Sew a gathering row of stitches around the two sides and the rounded end of the longer two strips of fabric about 1/4 in. from the outside edge.
5. Pull up the gathers to fit the shorter two strips of fabric.
6. Sew the two pieces together after distributing the gathers evenly along the length of the strips with the right side of the strips facing each other using a -in. seam allowance. Leave one end of each strip open to slip over the padded hanger. The two tubes you have created will meet in the middle around the hook of the hanger.
7. Carefully thread the gathered tube over the batting-covered hanger and adjust so that the gathered side is facing up toward the hook of the hanger.
8. With a needle and thread sew these two sleeves together in the middle or just under the hook of the hanger.
9. Now cover the area where the two sides have come together with a -in. ribbon in a coordinating color. This ribbon is woven in a figure eight pattern around the hook and then around the bottom of the fabric tubes with enough ribbon left to tie a small bow around the base of the hook of the hanger.
10. One additional step is to create a small sachet bag to hang around the hook to add that special hand made touch. Use a small rectangle of fabric and sew around three sides to make a pouch to hold a small amount of fragrant, sweet smelling potpourri. Gather and tie a ribbon securely around the top edge of the pouch and attach it to the hanger around the base of the hook.
11. To customize the sachet for a special occasion such as a wedding, embroider the initials and date on the sachet bag before filling it with potpourri.
After all the sewing projects for decorating your home are finished and you think there are no more new ways to use that beautiful fabric you have left over, then one more idea comes to your imagination. How about making covered and padded hangers for that special occasion dress? And they make great gifts, too. Padded hangers are especially nice covered in satin for a wedding gift or from matching fabric for the bridesmaids, done in elegant fabric to coordinate with the dresses. There is no end to fun sewing ideas if you keep looking for them.
Supplies:
1/4 yd. print or satin fabric
Scrap quilt batting or loose Fiberfil
thread
hanger - wooden or wire
1 yd. -in. wide ribbon
Step-by Steps:
1. Find a plain old wooden hanger to use as the base. A wire hanger can also be used but needs to be bent and shaped before covering it. Shape the wire hanger by squeezing the wire hanger together to form a narrow shaped hanger so that the open center part is flattened and close together.
2. Using any type of quilt batting, cut about 3 in. wide strips and wrap these strips around the hanger from the hook in the center to the end of the hanger and back again until the whole hanger is evenly covered in a layer of soft batting. Wrap the batting with sewing thread to hold it in place and secure it to the hanger.
3. Cut two narrow strips of fabric measuring 3 1/4 in. by 15 1/2 in. and two more strips that measure 3 1/4 in. by 9 in. Round off one end of each of these four strips.
4. Sew a gathering row of stitches around the two sides and the rounded end of the longer two strips of fabric about 1/4 in. from the outside edge.
5. Pull up the gathers to fit the shorter two strips of fabric.
6. Sew the two pieces together after distributing the gathers evenly along the length of the strips with the right side of the strips facing each other using a -in. seam allowance. Leave one end of each strip open to slip over the padded hanger. The two tubes you have created will meet in the middle around the hook of the hanger.
7. Carefully thread the gathered tube over the batting-covered hanger and adjust so that the gathered side is facing up toward the hook of the hanger.
8. With a needle and thread sew these two sleeves together in the middle or just under the hook of the hanger.
9. Now cover the area where the two sides have come together with a -in. ribbon in a coordinating color. This ribbon is woven in a figure eight pattern around the hook and then around the bottom of the fabric tubes with enough ribbon left to tie a small bow around the base of the hook of the hanger.
10. One additional step is to create a small sachet bag to hang around the hook to add that special hand made touch. Use a small rectangle of fabric and sew around three sides to make a pouch to hold a small amount of fragrant, sweet smelling potpourri. Gather and tie a ribbon securely around the top edge of the pouch and attach it to the hanger around the base of the hook.
11. To customize the sachet for a special occasion such as a wedding, embroider the initials and date on the sachet bag before filling it with potpourri.
A Snuggly Baby Blanket
Level: Easy (if you crochet)
Moderate (if you must learn crocheting)
If you want to pamper a new mother and baby with a beautiful, hand made gift that becomes the most treasured gift of all, make a very special receiving blanket. This blanket is so much more than just a receiving blanket. Every mother melts when she opens this gift.
What makes it even more special is a customized crocheted edging. It then becomes a gift of yourself. This is, after all, the reason we like to make hand made gifts - to let the person know that we thought of them enough to make something special that took time, thought, and love to create.
While stitching around the edge of this ample flannel blanket, I like to think of the love bestowed upon the new baby who will sleep under its warm protection.
Supplies:
1 1/3 yds. printed cotton flannel
1 1/3 yds. coordinating printed cotton flannel
Thread
Crochet cotton
Crochet hook size 6 or 7 (optional)
Step-by Steps:
1. Purchase 1 1/3 yd. each of two baby print flannel fabrics. There are so many available in the fabric stores that it will be hard to decide your two favorites. I like to use one colorful and busy pattern on one side and a coordinating print for the other side that is less patterned and colorful.
2. Wash both fabrics in hot water and detergent, then dry in the drier. You know it will be washed many times in the future and this insures that the flannel will be especially soft and pre-shrunk before it is sewn.
3. Measure the width of the flannel from selvage to selvage after washing to determine how large of a square you can make. Most fabrics vary in width but try to make as big of a square as the fabric will allow. It will be necessary to mark the four corners with a square object to use as a sewing guide after putting the right sides of the fabric together. Pin the two layers together and sew around all four sides but leave a small opening to allow for turning the blanket right side out.
4. After sewing the two layers together the seam will be trimmed and the corners clipped and then the blanket can be turned right side out.
5. Use a pointed object and poke out the corners and then carefully press the four edges of the blanket so that the seams lay flat. Hand sew the opening closed.
6. Cut a very long thread of crochet cotton and thread a sharp, large-eyed needle with a double strand. If you thread the two cut ends through the needle you can use the loop at the other end as a knot.
7. Begin along one edge and sew a blanket stitch with this doubled thread with the stitches spaced approximately 1/2 in. deep and 1/2 in. apart. When you reach the corner take three stitches in the same hole and the corner will look as even as the sides.
8. When you run out of thread you will need to end the one and begin the new thread. Do this as neatly as possible. I work with an especially long thread so I don't have to start and stop very often.
9. The blanket is usable now but if you can crochet and would like to spend the extra time, it looks very special when a narrow edging is added. I use a small crochet hook and crochet into the loose edge of the blanket stitches. I put 3 single crochet stitches in one space, then 1 double crochet, and a triple crochet, and another double crochet in the next space. Repeat the pattern. Be sure to secure the ends by weaving them in and attaching them firmly. This blanket will be used daily and needs to be very washable and sturdy.
Moderate (if you must learn crocheting)
If you want to pamper a new mother and baby with a beautiful, hand made gift that becomes the most treasured gift of all, make a very special receiving blanket. This blanket is so much more than just a receiving blanket. Every mother melts when she opens this gift.
What makes it even more special is a customized crocheted edging. It then becomes a gift of yourself. This is, after all, the reason we like to make hand made gifts - to let the person know that we thought of them enough to make something special that took time, thought, and love to create.
While stitching around the edge of this ample flannel blanket, I like to think of the love bestowed upon the new baby who will sleep under its warm protection.
Supplies:
1 1/3 yds. printed cotton flannel
1 1/3 yds. coordinating printed cotton flannel
Thread
Crochet cotton
Crochet hook size 6 or 7 (optional)
Step-by Steps:
1. Purchase 1 1/3 yd. each of two baby print flannel fabrics. There are so many available in the fabric stores that it will be hard to decide your two favorites. I like to use one colorful and busy pattern on one side and a coordinating print for the other side that is less patterned and colorful.
2. Wash both fabrics in hot water and detergent, then dry in the drier. You know it will be washed many times in the future and this insures that the flannel will be especially soft and pre-shrunk before it is sewn.
3. Measure the width of the flannel from selvage to selvage after washing to determine how large of a square you can make. Most fabrics vary in width but try to make as big of a square as the fabric will allow. It will be necessary to mark the four corners with a square object to use as a sewing guide after putting the right sides of the fabric together. Pin the two layers together and sew around all four sides but leave a small opening to allow for turning the blanket right side out.
4. After sewing the two layers together the seam will be trimmed and the corners clipped and then the blanket can be turned right side out.
5. Use a pointed object and poke out the corners and then carefully press the four edges of the blanket so that the seams lay flat. Hand sew the opening closed.
6. Cut a very long thread of crochet cotton and thread a sharp, large-eyed needle with a double strand. If you thread the two cut ends through the needle you can use the loop at the other end as a knot.
7. Begin along one edge and sew a blanket stitch with this doubled thread with the stitches spaced approximately 1/2 in. deep and 1/2 in. apart. When you reach the corner take three stitches in the same hole and the corner will look as even as the sides.
8. When you run out of thread you will need to end the one and begin the new thread. Do this as neatly as possible. I work with an especially long thread so I don't have to start and stop very often.
9. The blanket is usable now but if you can crochet and would like to spend the extra time, it looks very special when a narrow edging is added. I use a small crochet hook and crochet into the loose edge of the blanket stitches. I put 3 single crochet stitches in one space, then 1 double crochet, and a triple crochet, and another double crochet in the next space. Repeat the pattern. Be sure to secure the ends by weaving them in and attaching them firmly. This blanket will be used daily and needs to be very washable and sturdy.
Fabric Magnets
Level: Easy
Magnets have done a lot to the kitchen refrigerator. Magnets have converted refrigerators into art galleries where every member of the family can display their favorite things. These items range from school art, to notices of meetings, to wedding invitations, to birth announcements.
Most predominately displayed on this family bulletin board is always the latest photos of friends, family, and children. Magnetized frames made from fabric provide a unique way to display your favorite photos on the refrigerator. It makes great sense to those of you who sew to find a use for those great fabrics and scraps from other projects. Most copy stores are capable of laminating and will gladly laminate your fabric to create these fun frames. Choose fabrics for special occasions if you are making extra to give as gifts. For example, if you are framing sports, baby or vacation pictures you will be able to easily find those themes in the fabric store.
Supplies:
Fabric
Scissors
Template material
Copy shop to laminate
Step-by-Steps:
1. Cut your chosen fabric into sizes that will suit the dimensions of the photographs. Since the copy shop will charge you by the sheet, it is best to figure how many you can cut from one laminated piece. The photo size will determine the outside perimeter unless you cut it down.
2. Press the fabric and then visit the local copy shop.
3. Plan the cuts you will make to get the maximum number of frames and then using sharp scissors cut the outside edges of the rectangles or squares.
4. Make a template from clear plastic so that you can plan the opening of the frame - round or oval - depending on the placement of the subject matter. With a pen or pencil mark the opening around this template onto the top of the laminated square or rectangle.
5. To cut through the laminated sheet on the inner circle or oval it will be necessary to poke a hole through the center of the opening before you trim out this shape.
6. Cut radiating slices just to the line you marked with your template. This will allow you to cut a smooth edge when using your scissors. Another way to cut this inner shape is to use an Exacto knife with a new blade. Be careful, sometimes the knife will break the seal on the laminate, which changes the look of the fabric. Experiment with both techniques and you will find your favorite way to do it.
7. Measure the back of the frame and attach strips of magnet at the top and bottom of the frame to hold this on the refrigerator. Most strip magnet is sold with one sticky side that will adhere to the back of the laminate. This magnetic strip will hold the picture in place so it is not necessary to attach the photo to the frame.
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